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Food & Drink in the Algarve, Portugal
what to drink during your stay in the Algarve
The Wines of Portugal - The Bairrada Region
Bom Dia
 Welcome to February's wine article. Following on from last month's look at the Demarcated Region of Dao (Dung!), we look this time around at the immediately neighbouring DOC of Bairrada. I hope by the way that you have tried a few bottles of Dao in the intervening few weeks, either in the windy UK or somewhat warmer climes of Portugal. If you have, don't forget to let me know what you thought of the wines.
So to Bairrada, another very traditional region where, like Dao, the fertile wine growing areas have records dating back to the 12th century. Both areas are renowned for the excellence of wine they produce, which have been famous since the foundation of the country of Portugal. The region starts only twenty kilometres from the sea and it spreads to the inner centre of the country. Vines are scattered everywhere, mainly in small estates, although there are some vineyards which occupy large areas. Some of the Bairrada region's highlights include -
 A visitor's wine route through the Bairrada wine region, where the sea has influenced the character of the local wines, also enables you to discover the Luso and Curia spas, with their very old-fashioned hotels complete with the charm of the 1920's and 30's. Neighbouring Buçaco, located in tree-covered hills, is an ideal place for relaxing on your holiday in the area.
On the nearby coast, you'll find the peaceful atmosphere of lagoons and rivers. There are long beaches here, with high sand dunes and the area is famous for its picturesque striped houses which line the shore.
The region's Museum of Bairrada Wine holds a permanent exhibition which is divided into six rooms, each with a specific theme aimed at describing the viticultural and vinification history of the region; including archaeological, ethnographic and technical details. You can also take a virtual journey in the region, through their videos. The Museum naturally includes a wine shop and other wine growing products, to `catch the attention of the visitors'.
 Located at the heart of the viticultural Bairrada and with its origins in the thermal waters, found a long time ago by the Romans, Curia is composed by a true unique green area which suggests an awakening to the true life senses and you might also like to make a note of -
Bussaco Palace Hotel
“The Bussaco Palace Hotel, one of the most beautiful and historical hotels in the world, is situated at the amazing Royal Palace, the last legacy of the Kings of Portugal, which is surrounded by the majestic Bussaco Forest. In a word, it is an unique architectural, botanical and landscaped scenario in Europe.”
 Quinta das Lágrimas Hotel
“An oasis of peace and tranquility in Coimbra. The Quinta das Lágrimas Hotel is surrounded by 12 hectares of forest and gardens, where the king D. Pedro and Dona Inês de Castro lived their forbidden love.”
Coimbra
“The first National Capital of Culture was staged in Coimbra in 2003. Its theme `Culture, Science and Citizenship' instigated the adequate start to the deepening of a reflection about the city, its image and the social and cultural practices that take place in it. Similarly, the National Capital of Culture represents an opportunity to foster the evaluation of the nature of the politics and the cultural practices, as well as its effects upon the citizens' daily life and upon the future of the contemporary cities.”
 Vinously, we'll take a particular look at one of the most exciting and revolutionary producers of the region, indeed of Portugal. Luís Pato's wines are the result of the association of two traditional families from Bairrada, the Pato and the Melo Campos families. At the Quinta do Ribeirinho estate documents reveal a wine production since the 18th century.
With the official demarcation of the Bairrada Region, the distinct character of the local wines led to the bottling of wines of their own production for the first time in the 1970s and then, in the 1980's, many awards at local wine competitions  encouraged the continuation of the winery's innovative work that Luís had implemented since the birth of the region to raise their profile as a brand. Some bullet points of Luís Pato's achievements are -
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in 1988; the introduction of the concept of `Old vineyards' (Vinhas Velhas)
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in 1995; the introduction of `Single Vineyards' (Vinhos de Vinha), demonstrating the distinction of the character of wines coming from different vineyards,
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the introduction of Touriga Nacional as an improved grape variety, and the first production of wine from non-grafted vines.
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in 1998, the introduction of a white wine `Single Vineyard' (Vinha) shored upon the qualitative excellency of the local Bical.
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in 2001, the attainment of the best harvest in our history as producers.
To quantify the region's production, the range of wines available is astonishing as this list of Pato's wines below proves
As elsewhere in Portugal the massive influence and importance of local varieties is emphasised in the production of the region.
 The area is a major red wine producer of Portugal and is located on the coastal plain lying slightly inland from the sea to the town of Aveiro and then south down to the town of Coimbra. The municipalities that are included are Anadia, Mealhada, Oliveira do Bairro, and part of Agueda, Aveiro, Cantanhede, Coimbra and Vagos. The red wine produced here is noted for its smoothness and suavity, deep in colour and full-bodied, acquiring a brownish hue as it ages. The white wines are fairly robust, fruity with a hint of lemon. The rosés range in colour and are fresh and fruity. Sparkling wines are produced in white and rosé and range from “Brut” to “Medium Dry”.
Historically, Bairrada wines posed an economic threat to port and were sometimes blended or misrepresented as such. Consequently, the Marquis of Pombal's 1756 delimitation of the Douro as the sole legitimate port region also ordered the destruction of the Bairrada vineyards. When they were eventually replanted, the red Baga grape became most popular. Today, comprising over 70% of the region's red wine production, it traditionally produces dark, highly tannic wines but, with modern techniques, can also produce softer, lighter wines (including rosés).
 80% of the vineyards produce red grapes, while most of the region's white grapes are used for sparkling wine - perhaps surprisingly 60% of Bairrada's production is of sparkling wines; of white, rosé and red. Good rosés are also produced, always entirely from red grapes. Maria Gomes and Bical are the white varietals used for the white sparkling wines (which have no DOC status).
The terrain of this gently undulating, heavily forested coastal region south of Oporto produces a preponderance of red wines from the Baga grape on its largely calcareous clay soils. Despite its proximity to the Atlantic, rainfall is moderate and the climate is temperate. There are less than 40 estate bottlers among the close to 5,000 vineyard owners working the 12,000 hectares that are planted to grapes. The vines in Bairrada are generally `freestanding', low and un-trellised, although some wineries now train the canes on wires.
Minimum alcohol levels are 11% and the reds, many of which are capable of long bottle development, must be at least 1 year old before sale. Only 15% of the production qualifies for the DOC.
Martin Ward Wine Educators International
A reminder of forthcoming events involving Portugal:
Monday 12th March 2007 - Taste Port at our Residential Wine Course at Denman College, Abingdon, Oxfordshire
Friday 29th June 2007 - Taste Portuguese wines at our Wine Weekend at Higham Hall, Bassenthwaite, Cumbria
Wednesday 18th July - Taste Portuguese wines with Food at our Residential Wine & Food Matching Course at Dillington House, Ilminster, Somerset.
If you would like to know more about Portuguese Food and Drink, why don't you dip into our Restaurants in the Algarve section and our series of articles on Portuguese Wines and Ports. We also feature some Traditional Portuguese Recipes and a glossary of useful Portuguese food & drink words and phrases
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