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Where to eat in the Algarve, Portugal
Restaurante Forteleza da Luz in Praia da Luz
Is it just me ?
Everything seems to be just “in yer face” these days. Take digital cameras, I've got one, and every where I go I take lots of snaps, and then delete half of them before forgetting what the rest were supposed to show. When I had a “real” camera, I would take time to appreciate the surroundings, compose the picture, become part of what was there, and remember.
 What's brought this on you might ask. Well the other day I was watching Casablanca (yes, again). Black and white, no techno imagery, no special effects, and so enjoyable. It's all about using your own senses to become a part of it and enjoy, with the bonus that the experience stays with you.
This brings me to Restaurante Fortaleza. Jackie and I have been here a number of times and always return for that special night out. The Fortaleza is situated on the Rua da Igreja right opposite the church at Praia da Luz so you cannot miss this gem. It is surrounded by lovely Mediterranean gardens and has an annexe to the dining room which overlooks Praia da Luz's hidden beach. Everyone who has been to Luz knows the beautiful wide beach along the front but it's easy to miss the one that's hidden behind the outcrop of rock with the old fort (now the Fortaleza) built on top.
I once read a web site article about the Fortaleza. It wasn't very complimentary because the author had been shown straight into this part of the dining room and expressed disappointment that they were not offered a table in the main dining room.
 Well, its all about being part of it. Why didn't they ask?
My guess is that either they weren't dressed appropriately or more likely, they (looking like tourists) were shown to the table with the best views. Make no mistake, the tables in this part of the dining room have wonderful, uninterrupted views up the coast towards Burgau and it's lovely to sit there at lunch and watch the waves crashing on the rocks and reaching up the beach towards the few people who know about the secluded sandy spots.
However for that special night out, the main part of the dining room is where to go. This was built around about the 16th century and retains that grandeur that comes with baronial halls. Massive stone pillars hide the candle lit tables and make you feel just that bit more private, an enormous  open fire blazes gloriously up the stone chimney in the winter months and the bare stone walls, hung with swords and armour, bear witness to the age of the place and its surroundings. (Look for the Roman writing chiselled into some of the stones; these must have been re-cycled from the Roman ruins in other parts of Luz when the original fort was built).
A night out at the Fortaleza is to be recommended but make sure you book your table especially if it's a Thursday night. Open throughout the year, the Fortaleza offers live entertainment most Thursday nights with “sound-alike” entertainers and swing specialists but if you just want a meal you won't be disappointed.
 On our last visit, I ordered a tomato salad as a starter. Now in Britain, I'm not especially fond of tomatoes, they are usually squidgy and tasteless but here they were firm, crisp and full of flavour. Served on a bed of onion slices and mozzarella, with a liberal sprinkling of herbs and oil, this really was an appetizer to remember. (A great starter we have remembered for home entertaining). Jackie ordered the soup of the day. Usually in Portugal, soup of the day is vegetable (I remember one holiday, years ago, at a hotel, the soup every evening was called something exotic and it became a ritual to ask the waiter what the soup was. Every evening, whatever the soup was called, it was always “Eeza soupa wi veeegggetables”). Jackie's soup, however, was superb; asparagus; served with several spears of lightly grilled asparagus added, and a basket of fresh bread. For main courses we both had a chicken dish. Jackie had chicken breasts grilled in butter and pineapple juice with chopped pineapple added as a garnish, while I had a supreme of chicken in  a green pepper sauce. Both dishes were a delight and the vegetables were served on separate dishes for us to help ourselves. It's so much better that way don't you think?
Portions are generous at the Fortaleza and we couldn't manage a sweet but there is an extensive range of appetizing dishes to choose from. All this and the price is no more than you would pay at the tourist traps in town. Our meal, including beers and spritzer to start, a bottle of excellent house wine and coffees to close, came to €47.
The Fortaleza is a place to go to be made to feel special. The surroundings are unique, the place is steeped in atmosphere and you will feel like you are in the middle of some medieval re-enactment. The staff are all Portuguese, which is becoming unusual and they are friendly and helpful and eager  for you to enjoy your visit. They will tell you that you are welcome anytime, either just to enjoy a drink in the garden bar or take advantage of the “eat all you can” at the live jazz lunchtime buffets on Sunday.
Next time you want somewhere just that bit special to go, try the Fortaleza, you won't be disappointed. Don't make a scene though, rumour has it that the owner is a keen and accomplished swordsman and those big swords on the wall look freshly sharpened to me.
For more info and a menu try the Fortaleza web site at www.fortalezadaluz.com
Tony and Jackie 2006
If you would like to know more about Portuguese Food and Drink, why don't you dip into our Restaurants in the Algarve section and our series of articles on Portuguese Wines and Ports. We also feature some Traditional Portuguese Recipes and a glossary of useful Portuguese food & drink words and phrases
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